The 2004 FIP World Polo Championships (WPC) take place in a setting so magical, so incredible, you might think Walt Disney created it. The setting seemed almost too perfect to be real: castles lighted by torchlight, small roads winding through tree-shaded lanes, evidence of wild boars rooting around, tiny deer-like creatures bounding through the forest. In the middle of this setting were 17 days of action for the eight polo teams that advanced in zone playoffs. Played every three years, this the seventh time in history, teams from the United States, France, England, Australia, Pakistan, Brazil, Mexico and Chile made up a small United Nations atmosphere as the revelry and sportsmanship crossed all cultural and language barriers.

The charming French countryside village of Chantilly is the center for horse activities in France and could easily be one of the most charming in the entire country, if not the world. The Chantilly Polo Club, developed by Patrick Guerrand-Hermes, is situated on 80,000 acres of land owned and leased back from the Institute of France, a national trust established to preserve the culture and beauty of the country. The clubhouse, situated among beautiful old stone barns, the green polo fields, surrounded by forests and accessed through tree-lined roads, is nothing short of breathtaking. It all seems to reflect the same elegant taste and distinctive style of Hermes, known the world over for scarves and leather goods, originally established by Patrick’s great-great-great-grandfather.

The WPC village opened to the public September 9. Guerrand-Hermes greeted everyone the moment they stepped through the entry gate. European royalty and tour bus attendees alike received the same warm greetings when the opening ceremonies trouped the colors with fanfare and pony parades featuring the teams participating in the competition. The USA team comprised Joe Wayne Barry, Jason Crowder, Chris Gannon, Alan Martinez, Steve Orthwein, Joseph Stuart and Dan Walker plus coach Steve Crowder and an entire platoon of American supporters.

Federation of International Polo President Glen Holden officially opened the games as Mexico took on Pakistan. Mexico began with a 2-goal handicap and held the lead until the third. The game was tied at 12 until Pakistan scored the game winner in the final minutes of the match. England then faced defending champion Brazil. Close throughout, Brazil edged ahead to win 9-8.

Holden, wife Gloria and FIP dignitaries were in constant attendance as activities continued to unfold in a wave of parties, lunches, dinners and evening soirees with a schedule that would rival Napoleon’s march through Europe. The weather cooperated mostly with warm sunny days and cool evenings, allowing the first elegant evening hosted by Guerrand-Hermes to be picture perfect.

The setting for the first grand soiree, next to a small lake, in the shadow of the Chantilly Castle, with torchlights and fireworks lighting up the night sky, couldn’t have been more idyllic. Originally intended to be black tie, the round trip to Paris in heavy traffic presented a problem for Parisian attendees, thus it was agreed suit and tie would do. The American team in their navy blazers emblazoned with the USPA crests looked very handsome with wives and significant others at their sides. Team family members included Linda Walker, Valerie Crowder with daughter Whitney (who celebrated her 13th birthday during the trip), Kirsten Barry, Tim Gannon, Kaye Gannon, Steve and Ginny Orthwein as well as Dina Stuart and Woody Stuart.

As if the setting alone was not enough, the Chateau de Chantilly, built in 1560 and surrounded by a moat, houses the second-largest art collection outside of the Louvre in Paris. The library, with more than 40,000 books and 700 manuscripts, some dating back to the 15th century, includes the Book of Hours, which took the monks of that period 70 years to write. It details life in the Middle Ages. Paintings by the masters, such as Raphael, Van Dyke and others, were common throughout the castle, as was pointed out during the private tour by Frederic Nancel, director of development and operations. Nancel’s wife, Candace, works at the American Embassy and greeted the U.S. team at the American ambassador’s residence in Paris. The Nancels gave a private reception in their home on the Chantilly Castle grounds, following a private tour of the chateau. To further understand the extent of elegance and expense that these castles exhibit, the grand duke of Conde, also known as the seventh prince of Conde, believing he was going to be reincarnated as a horse, built a castle for his 240 horses and more than 500 hunting dogs, so that he would be assured a pleasurable existence in the next life befitting his rank. That building, now a living horse museum, hosted the final evening’s grand soiree.

The U.S. team had their first game against Chile on September 11. Gannon, Martinez, Crowder and Barry took the field for USA and held a strong lead through the first half but succumbed to Chile 8-9. Next, Australia and France battled it out, with France sending Australia down under 11-2.

Howard Leech, the American ambassador to France, and his wife, Gretchen, cut short their U.S. vacation at home in San Francisco at the behest of former Ambassador Glen Holden to host a cocktail party at their private residence in Paris for the entire team. The embassy staff later came out to Chantilly to support the U.S. team at some of the games. Team members found plenty of time to hit the various nightclubs in Paris, a drive of less than an hour, not counting time for getting lost! Their favorite disco watering hole turned out to be Cab (short for Cabaret), where they received VIP treatment, no small achievement for a group of 20-somethings from the United States. Private homes and restaurants in Chantilly were also occasional hosts for evening meals.

Starting the second round of games, Brazil crushed Pakistan 13-5. Mexico and England played the second match of the day, but heavy rains stopped the match in the third with England leading 7-4. Several days later the game continued, with England taking the match 11-5.

Probably the most heart-stopping evening was the black tie event at Chateau de Fleury, the private home (or at least one of them) of Count Jean de Ganay. While members of the FIP were hosted in the neighboring castle of Count Paul de Ganay, the younger set hopped into a private motor coach and pulled up in front of yet another castle right out of the Knights of the Round Table. They were amazed at the size and elegance of the exterior architecture and gardens, but the interior was even more astonishing. Where most chateaux are now cold museums whose previous occupants have been dead for hundreds of years, this one is occupied by Count Paul de Ganay’s nephew Jean, who lives there with all the pomp and circumstance fit for a king. Seating for 500 seemed to present no problem whatsoever as the halls rocked with disco music and fireworks lit up the sky one more time. Since Chantilly hosts the world’s fireworks competition in June every year, the French are no strangers to outstanding displays of fireworks, as was evidenced at the conclusion of two spectacular parties. As if the evening in the Cinderella-like atmosphere was not already a lifetime experience, watching the sky light up in the company of princes, maharajahs and counts was just one jaw-dropping sensation after another. Where do you buy glass slippers when you really need them?

As the games played on the U.S. team faced Australia, with both teams holding onto a first-round loss. Steve Orthwein Jr. replaced Barry, who had injured his hand. The USA team won easily, 12-7. In the next game, France dominated Chile for the first half, only to have Chile dominate the second half to win 12-6.

The dazzling evening events certainly did not overshadow the games. More American friends were found in the stands every day of play. Randy and Annie Russell, Susan Stovall and her sister, Derek and Deborah Wolstenholm, and Karen Friden arrived while the American team was still in contention. By the final days of the games, the U.S. contingent had swelled to dozens of Americans, including USPA Polo Properties Director David Cummings and his wife, Pamela. Kim Kumpart showed up to photograph the action along with wife Evie, as did www.pccpolo.com Web site developer Lynn Bremner. USPA International Committee Chairman Patrick Nesbitt and companion Ursula Beaton sat with friends Richard and Annette Caleel, whose son Thomas and daughter, who lives in London, managed a family reunion in Chantilly. Sprinkled throughout the stands were Denny and JoAnn Geiler, Victor Trione, Dr. Matt Richardson, Mr. and Mrs. Ken Barry and Jeep Holden and family.

The games continued with Mexico upsetting Brazil 9-8, and England crushing Pakistan 14-4. The following day Chile sent Australia packing 16-5 and France ousted USA 7-4. USA didn’t connect with the goal until late in the fourth. Martinez had a good game, but overall the team had a dismal showing. Advancing to the semifinals would be England vs. Chile and France vs. Brazil.

The tent village selling various items, from silk scarves to limousines, found many friends rendezvousing in the Pommery Champagne tent at the end of a busy afternoon. Later, during evenings with no special parties planned, the tent village hosted parties for the teams. Mexico’s Costa Careyes Polo Club furnished a mariachi band and margaritas for everyone. Brazil seemed to have the most ardent supporters with their own drums, flags and acrobatic cheerleaders that took precedence like a 500-pound gorilla.

Perhaps the support motivated Brazil in the semifinal over France as they dominated the match. Holding onto an 8-2 lead after four periods, Brazil went on to win 9-4. The other semifinal had England slipping past Chile 9-8. England’s strategy was to slow the Chilean team down, which they managed to do, winning the match and advancing to the final.

As if the polo action wasn’t enough, the tent village included an electronic horse where polo players could have their swing analyzed and copied to a complimentary computer disc; a tent from Mongolia with stunning examples of the country’s cashmere products for sale; Maybach automobiles featuring a limo with a price tag of up to a half million dollars; La Martina, which supplied all the team jerseys; and Scapa, with their outstanding polo equipment. In the center of it all was the Hermes booth, more a small cottage than a tent, featuring ties and scarves made exclusively for the event. No expense was spared as even the media room was treated to high-speed access via satellite. A number of other tents hosted private lunches prior to the games each day. Demonstrations of sporting falcons, Renaissance riders, dressage and junior riders all took center stage in an arena inside the tent village constructed for festivities prior to the final games.

The first game on the final day was for third and fourth place, with Chile taking on France. Chile kept a small lead through the first part of the game before kicking into high gear and extending their lead 12-7 by the final bell, for a third-place finish. Excitement was mounting as spectators anxiously awaited the final showdown. Brazil and England took to the field with Brazil holding a 1-goal handicap. England quickly equalized that with a goal from Tom Morley. Brazil scored down the middle of the field before England countered. Brazil sandwiched a pair of penalty conversions around a field goal for a 5-2 lead. England closed the gap at the beginning of the third. They held off several Brazilian attacks before tying the match at 5, then scoring two more to lead 7-5 in the fifth. Brazil answered and before long tied the game at 7 to start the sixth even. Brazil came out firing in the sixth, connecting with two. With less than a minute left, England took the ball from the throw-in to come within one. With the time nearly gone, the umpires’ whistles sounded in favor of England. With just 15 seconds on the clock, England put the ball through the uprights for a 9-9 tie! The crowd went wild and England breathed a sigh of relief.

Bob Bradley, Bud and Geri Dardi and USA’s Dan Walker worked the sidelines as horse timers. The horses were only allowed to play seven minutes per game, and the timing was considered a critical factor in fairness to the owners of the 250 horses that had been privately loaned. With the teams tied at the end of regulation time, the time limitation presented a sticking point, requiring additional horses to play the sudden-death decision. The players complained they didn’t have enough horses for an extra chukker while the organizing committee discussed the predicament.

Finally, the game resumed. The teams battled back and forth, with both teams fouling, but neither team could capitalize on several penalty shots. England was called for yet another foul in front of the goal for Brazil. Confusion ensued when the Brazilian players jumped off their horses in celebration and people swarmed the field, some say before a penalty was taken. Brazil was declared the winner and England quietly rode off the field in defeat. It is not clear what penalty was called. A Penalty 1 is a goal for the fouled team and wouldn’t need to be taken. Attempts to ascertain what penalty was awarded or if one was converted were fruitless.

Dubai threw a final black-tie event in the horse museum castle with a sit-down dinner for 500 guests. FIP Executive Committee meetings concluded with applications from Brazil, Mexico, Spain and Italy bidding to host the next world championship in 2007. 

Editor’s Note: Sandy Herron, administrator for USPA Pacific Coast Circuit Governor Patrick Nesbitt, contributed to this article. Herron serves on three USPA committees and is secretary of the American International Polo Foundation, the fund-raising arm for international competitions.